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When you walk in the hills of Lebanon in the summer the air is rich with the smell of fig leaves. The low lying trees are scattered hither and yon across the countryside creating just another one of the magical Mediterranean smells that instantly transport me back to being a child in Turkey. I’ve played with trying to capture the essence of that sweet, musky smell in an ice cream or in mixed in to make a fragrant salt mixture, but it seems once the leaves are picked they immediately loose their delectable aroma. The best way I’ve found to bottle this smell of the Lebanese mountains is by wrapping the leaves around a whole fish which I then grill. If I’m being fancy I might use some fig wood in the BBQ as well just to reinforce the flavours.
Kelly’s is a little fish place in Achrafieh that has a beautiful fish-on-ice display in its front room and some of the most delicious fresh catches of the day. The owner, Kelly, is passionate about seafood and works with only the best fishermen in Lebanon to serve his very particular clientele. His grilled octopus is maybe the best I’ve ever eaten, and he does a whole grilled fish better than just about anyone I know. Filleted table-side, it’s served with nothing more than some local sea salt and an excellent olive oil for drizzling. Hopefully the techniques here will give you a perfectly grilled fish with the fragrance of the Lebanese countryside imbued in it.
4 large fig leaves
2 large Mediterranean sea bass, scaled and gutted
1 large lemon sliced into rounds
salt and pepper for seasoning
8 stems of parsley
olive oil for drizzling
fig wood with leaves attached for the grill (optional)
First step is to blanch your fig leaves in a large pot of boiling water, heavily seasoned with salt. Prepare a bowl full of ice water before you blanch the leaves. Cook for just 1 minute, until the leaves are pliable - plunge them into the ice water and allow them to cool. Place on paper towels to drain and allow to cool and dry completely before continuing.
Take your first cleaned fish and season it inside with salt and pepper. Arrange the lemon slices in a single layer and place 4 stems of parsley on top before drizzling with a bit of olive oil. Lay 2 of the fig leaves on your counter, just slightly overlapping and drizzle with a bit more olive oil. Place the fish on top, leaving the head and tail exposed and gently wrap (the olive oil should act a bit like glue). Place in the fridge before starting on your second fish.
When ready to cook heat your grill to very hot (you can also cook in a hot oven if you prefer). If you’re feeling ambitious it’s here that I add some additional fig wood, often with the leaves still attached to add some extra figgy smoke aroma to the fish. Drizzle the wrapped fish with a bit more oil before placing sealed side down on the prepared grill. Cook for 10-12 minutes per side, turning carefully to keep the parcels intact. They should be golden brown and the leaves crispy when they’re done.
Remove the fish to a platter and serve like Kelly would, with a delicious flaky sea salt and excellent olive oil for your guests to add as they choose.
