EAT

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Breakfast, Brunch or Man'oushe

The Lebanese Bakery  A man'oushe cafe with an excellent assortment of "pizzas for breakfast" and interesting toppings. There's a small place to sit but they do deliver.

Ichkahanian    I've written about this bakery before as have many travel food writers to Beirut. It's also Armenian and a little bakery hole in the wall that you must make a special trip for. Go in the morning and retrieve a lahme bi ajeen -man'oushe - it's pizza for breakfast! A thin little crispy base topped with minced lamb, chili, and pomegranate molasses.

El Soussi It isn't charming but the food is excellent and if you want an authentic Lebanese breakfast, this is your place. Order some foul and hummus, the eggs with qawarma, maybe some chicken livers. If they're busy they won't offer you anything but water, if you're lucky you'll get some tea. Anthony Bourdain wrote about this place, I wrote about this place, the NYTimes wrote about this place. It's an experience!

Mavia Bakery   This is a social enterprise started by an American man who is using local heirloom wheat varieties in his bakery. Furthermore, he trains local women to make his sourdough breads, bagels, sweet rolls so they have new skills and can help support their families. In addition to great breads to take away, they offer weekend brunch and Friday pizza nights. Located down an alley behind The Barn in Gemmayze it's a bit tricky to find, but worth it!

Paul Gemmayze The large garden seating area at this bakery chain is always packed and I loved coming in the morning to sit in the sun and have a coffee and croissant. Definitely an institution in Beirut

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Ladies who Lunch

‍Green Junkie     This place is delivery only and mostly a day-time spot, but as the creator of the original menu I have to recommend it! They make excellent, filling salads, interesting bowls, healthy breakfast items, cool drinks and smoothies. If you're in town for work this should be where you order lunch from.

Sage Parlour  Maysoon is the woman behind this brand of healthyish cafe dining. It's got lovely outside seating and offers a variety of familiar and yummy dishes.

Marinella It's a female led kitchen here (not the norm in Lebanon) serving classic Italian fare. Mostly open for lunch open (check for which evenings she might be open), this place is packed with the "it" crowd of Beirut enjoying leisurely lunches on the terrace.

Salata  They've moved into new digs in Gemmayze and I think that's great news. This place is fast food salads that are hearty and delicious.

Ginette This little cafe on Gemmayze's main road is super cute and has some excellent light options. A nice place to stop for a coffee and piece of cake if you're so inclined.

Le Chef This place is an institution. Serving home style Lebanese dishes it's cheap and cheerful, like its waitstaff. When it got blown up in the Port Blast of 2020 Russell Crowe donated a bunch of money in Anthony Bourdain's name so they could reopen. It's yummy.

Ashghalouna    If you're in town on a Friday please eat here. Their garden near the Basta neighborhood (see below for antiquing advice) is so charming! It's an organization that employs widows, helping them support their families by cooking or doing some other craft which they also sell in their extensive shop. Come for their traditional lunch buffet that has fantastic home style dishes but done exceptionally well.

Manara Palace Cafe I haven't been here myself but I have it on good authority that I missed out and need to go on my next visit. It has sea views and what looks like an excellent selection of food.

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Lebanese all the Way (and an Armenian)

‍ Maryool  A favorite for innovative Lebanese food tucked behind Meat The Fish in Saifi Village. I love their variety and really excellent vegetarian choices. Check what their dish of the day is. You could be very lucky!

‍Leila Min Lebnen    We used to go to the branch of this chain in ABC Achrafieh on the top floor. It's really really perfect when you want that hit of Lebanese goodness without much fuss. Of course, you could go and spend the afternoon, smoke some argyle and drink arak, but we loved it for their sweet mutabal (eggplant) dip, their basterma rolls, excellent fattoush, batata harra (garlic spiced crispy potatoes). Yes, it's a chain, but they do what they do well and I'm here for it!

Onno    Armenian food lovers rejoice. This Badaro restaurant is almost always busy so make a booking in advance but please come here and eat all the goodness! I love the cold stuffed eggplant in a yogurt sauce, the cherry sauce kebab, and of course, the manti. It makes my mouth water just thinking about it! It's just about perfect sitting on their terrance and watching the busy street and enjoying excellent food.

Em Sharif Cafe     If you want a scene then this is the spot! Located downtown it's a highly designed space filled with those who want to be seen. There's usually a ton of plastic surgery on display in the room and eye popping outfits. I love it. Beyond all that the food is some of the best in the city for traditional Lebanese. So good that she's opened outlets throughout the Gulf and in Harrods in London.

Liza  This is a beautiful restaurant now serving also in their gorgeous Achrafieh garden. It's really spectacular and the food is stunning too. Again, Lebanese but done very well. I can't recommend this spot enough.

Tawlet     The brainchild of Kamal Mouzawak (who I think should be the President of Lebanon), this is an off-shoot of the Souk el Tayeb farmers' market. Now they're all located in the same building in Mar Mikhael so you could go browse at the market Saturday morning and then get lunch upstairs afterwards. It's a rotating staff of excellent women cooks who each come from a different region in Lebanon. Each lady has her specialties and a large buffet is set up to showcase them. It's a fixed price, all you can eat, with a large selection of cold and hot dishes...and dessert.

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Everything Else

‍Super Vega     Full disclosure, this is the restaurant in Badaro I created the original menu for and many of my dishes are still served. It's such a cool vibe, with wonderful outdoor seating and a menu full of what we called Mediterranean comfort food. It's a great place to share dishes with and I recommend the flatbreads and salads especially (or Saturday brunch). Cocktails are delicious too.

Terre  If I'm right, this restaurant was started by a group of young food and drink enthusiasts who have come up with one of the most exciting menus in the city. The cocktails are phenomenal and the menu is a constant rotation of seasonal and local dishes so you can get a real feel for what the country is about. This is not traditional Lebanese fare but filled with its flavors and done creatively. Bookings are a must!

‍Kelly's Fish Lounge  Kelly is the charming owner of this tiny fish restaurant tucked in an alley in Achrafieh. Make a booking and then when you get there ask him what to order. The fish is all excellently sourced from the best fishermen. I usually got some crudo to start, then his octopus (which is the best I've ever had), and then a whole fish grilled which he serves with only a bit of olive oil and sea salt to finish. There are usually some cats roaming around your feet...all the more charming in my opinion.

Tsunami   Our old sushi restaurant in Achrafieh again. It's really delicious (not cheap these days) but really satisfying if you're in the mood for sushi. They also have a good selection of sakis and Japanese beer.

‍ La Pizzaria  Best pizza in Beirut in my opinion and they sing when they answer their phone if you're calling in an order for delivery. Excellent crust, wood baked, and great assortment of toppings.

Le Petit Gris  If you're wanting French bistro-ish food then this spot in Gemmayze is where you should go. It has all of the crab and crevettes and pastas and tartares you could want. An excellent wine list and charming location make this a special night out.

‍Slate  This is a bit of a scene but the service is excellent as is the food. If you're craving a burger or steak frites or decadent bowl of pasta or an excellent beetroot carpaccio, this is the place for you.

Baron I don't love this place but others do. They are aiming for a bit of an Ottolenghi style menu but I think the dishes aren't well-executed and over worked. That said, it's packed, others love it, and it's a good atmosphere.

‍Peck This opened just as I was leaving Beirut, so I haven't eaten here, but Chef Greg Malouf created the sides at this chicken-specific restaurant...and that's a good thing!

La Menagerie  This is a lovely spot to try something a little bit different in the city. Their menu is highly seasonal, local, and changes accordingly. There's a strong French influence, as the name suggests. There's also gorgeous flowers for sale and interesting art around the room.

Bread Republic  Same owner as Le Menagerie right across the street. In the evenings it's mostly pizza and pasta, chacuterie plates and salads with good wines. I never passed by in the evening when there weren't people filling every table outside. Around the corner they sell their breads and in the winter it's a cozy spot to get their good soups of the day.

Paname   I felt like I shouldn't like this place but I really did. It's a very slick restaurant in Saifi Village with one of the nicest outside seating areas in the city. The food is consistently excellent with steaks and salads, pasta, seafood, and an excellent apple tarte with ice cream for dessert. I loved their seabass with a fennel salad. Make a booking if you're going to try it...and it's excellent people watching.

Pizzeria da Marco another recommendation that I can't vouch for but comes from a trusted source. Looking for Neapolitan style pizza...then this is worth a shot!

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Special Must-Visit

Hanna Mitri Ice Cream Another institution of Beirut that's been making ice cream since 1949! Some say it's the best ice cream they've ever had. I'm not sure about that, but it is a must try if you're around Achrafieh. I'm particularly partial to the pistachio and apricot flavors.

Le Voleur Ice Cream This was my guilty pleasure during my last electricity-free summer days in Beirut. They offer the most divine flavors including a sahlab flavor that I plan on trying to recreate! If you're dairy free, their sorbets are unusual and delicious.

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DRINK

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Cafe Society

These spots are wonderful oases away from the busy, loud city. Most will have wifi and great quality coffee and snacks.

Cafe Younes / Backburner / Sip / Kalei Coffee

Apero and Dancing the Night Away

I recognize that I'm not of the age to be up on the latest and greatest in this category, but these spots are legendary and worth the hangover the next day! And really, you haven't visited Beirut if you haven't at least dipped your toe in its nightlife.

Pacifico / Internazionale Bar / Fabrk / Iris / Kissproof / AHM Club / Union Marks / Salon Beyrouth / Brazzaville / Anise / Riwaq

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SHOP

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Women's Clothing & Bags

Sarah's Bags   I have a small collection of her whimsical and reasonably priced bags and accessories. As an added bonus, it's a business that trains and employs women who cannot find work elsewhere. She has an international following including Amal Clooney and the retail space is worth the trip for it's beauty. A must see!

Glow Boutique  An interesting mix of brands from around Europe and a few of their own pieces. Look for flowing casual dresses, beach cover ups, and skirts you won't find anywhere else.

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Food & Artisan Ingredients

Souk el Tayeb Farmers Market  My favorite place in Beirut! A wonderful collection of farmers bring their wares here each Saturday morning. It's the best atmosphere in town and you can grab a wonderful man'oushe, a bouquet of flowers, a handmade notebook, and do all of your produce shopping for the week! Read more in this excellent article here.

Terroirs du Liban  Excellent mouneh (or preserved foods) including qawarma and makdous and rose water and jams and carob molasses. They are for sale at outlets around town. Be on the lookout for them!

L'Atelier du Miel  Glorious honey!! From the various regions of Lebanon. They have a beautiful boutique in the Tabaris area of Achrafieh, but can also be found in other shops.

A New Earth   You can find many of the brand I've mentioned here at Sabine's jam-packed healthy/organic food shop. If you want the best fruits and vegetables, organic meat, fresh salmon, and all manner of healthy concoction (and a large selection of vitamins and clean cleaning solutions). I love this place. If you're here for any period of time this is your place.

Attie Freres Candy  An institution, making chocolate and nougat candies since 1928! Their boutique in Gemmayze is a gift. Go and enjoy them.

Deknet @ Souk el Tayeb  This is the shop attached to the Souk el Tayeb farmer's market and next to Tawlet restaurant. They stock many of the products I use in my recipes (I send an order in ahead whenever my husband is going back to Beirut for work). Look for The Good Thymes zaatar blends, aarak, a whole wall of spices, local sea salts, and concoctions. It's truly heaven - oh and I love their tote bags.

Feryal Mouneh Boutique Another foodie destination that's worth the trip to Sodeco Square! They feature handmade gorgeous ingredients created in villages around the country (and they ship globally if you can't make it to Beirut). It's a family operation and they're sure to steer you in the right direction whatever your desires might be.

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Lebanese Gifts

Luanatic   Very cute Lebanese themed gifts (you can also find these at the airport if you miss out here).

Orient 499  The most gorgeous store with hand crafts, local art, clothing, jewelry, home goods. If you're not on a budget this is the place to visit!

Studio Nada Debs She makes the most beautiful furniture with inlay work that celebrates the region. Her small shop under her bigger atelier has smaller gift items which have the same beauty and attention to detail.

Images d'Orient  I adore their Mediterranean patterned tableware, trays, and linens.

L'Artisan du Liban Your typical Lebanese gift shop. All manner of kitch and finery. It really runs the gamut.

Liwan  Worth a visit for lovely locally designed products from clothing and shoes to chandeliers and tableware.

Bokja  The stylish handmade pillows for sale here are eye-wateringly expensive but just so beautiful. Many have Lebanese themes which makes them a superb souvenir. They've also branched out into clothing and furniture.

Zenobie  Zeina has just opened her own little storefront in Mar Mikhael selling her unique and beautiful illustrations in various forms like tote bags, greeting cards, planners, and notebooks. A very special gift shop.

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Neighborhood Strolls

Basta Area This is the antiques district of Beirut and well-worth a visit. Wander in and out of the many shops, most of whom have been there for years. I bought all of the furniture for my kitchen atelier here and have several light fixtures fro here that I hope to have forever. It's not cheap and you should be prepared to bargain...and walk away if it seems to high. I do think they see foreigners as $$$$$

Bourj Hammoud This is the Armenian quarter of Beirut, just over the River, a crowded and hardworking neighborhood full of charm and lots and lots of history. I recommend hitting Marash Street and just wandering. They've got lots of spice shops, I bought my maamoul wooden molds here, and you might just find something you didn't know you needed!

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STAY

I never stayed in a hotel myself in Beirut but these are the recommendations most would give based on reputation and word-of-mouth. We stayed in airbnbs when we visited, but given the current electricity situation you need to be very sure that where you book is hooked up to a generator of some sort. Just check before you go!

Hotel Albergo   This is the only Relais & Chateaux property in Lebanon and with good reason! I've never been in their rooms but their public spaces are gorgeous, a lovely restaurant on the top floor and a rooftop pool that's sublime! I think you pay accordingly, but it's a lovely location in Achrafieh in my old stomping grounds.

Hotel Lost Is on the main street in Gemmayze, so I wonder if it doesn't get loud, especially on the weekends....but it's cute and in the heart of things.

Arthaus This is a gorgeous property, also in Gemmayze, but tucked away. It's got a beautiful pool in its garden with a restaurant, bar and rotating art exhibition. Definitely worth a stop even if you don't stay here.

The Grand Meshmosh Hotel A bare bones kind of stay in Beirut, but clean and it was always busy as I passed it countless times on my way up the St. Nicholas stairs.

O Monot Hotel A more traditional hotel kind of stay, but well-liked by those I've known who stay here.

Saifi Suites This is where my husband stays whenever he's back in Beirut for work. No nonsense, easy, does what it says on the tin.